
AR1 • 16
78. Install C27, 100 to 220 µF, observe polarity.
79. Install C28, .01 µF (marked .01 or 103 or 10nf).
80. Install U4, the LM386 audio amplifier IC. Observe proper orientation of
the notched end.
81. Install C29, 100 to 220 µF electrolytic. Observe polarity.
82. Install R27, 1K ohms [brown-black-red].
83. The battery hold-down clamp can be secured by looping a component lead
wire through the bracket holes and into the PC board. Solder the wires on the
board and on the clamp. Do not use too much solder on the clamp or the
battery will not seat fully.
CONGRATULATIONS! If you've made 235 good soldering connections and
have all parts identified and oriented correctly, you now own a working AR1
Aviation Band Receiver ready to test, adjust and enjoy!
ANTENNA CONSIDERATIONS
An antenna for your AR1 can be as simple as a 21" piece of wire or a fancy
roof-mounted aviation antenna. Most folks near an airport will get plenty of in-
the-air action from the wire, but if you're more than a few miles away, a decent
roof-mount job is the way to go. Radio Shack sells an ideal antenna designed
for scanners which covers the aircraft band nicely - cost is around $30. A low
cost TV antenna works well, even better if rotated 90 degrees (remember
aircraft antennas are vertically polarized). If you really want to learn and
experiment, check out Radio Shack's book on antennas, No. 62-1083. If you've
enjoyed building this kit, there's lots more ready for you in the Ramsey catalog -
call or write for your copy today!
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